10 Must-Try Traditional Dishes in Oaxaca City: From Mole to Tlayudas

Oaxaca City is often hailed as the culinary capital of Mexico, and for good reason. This vibrant city is a melting pot of ancient traditions and diverse cultures, reflected in its food. The region's cuisine is rooted in indigenous practices, Spanish colonial influences, and a deep connection to the land and its ingredients. From the rich, complex moles to the unique taste of tlayudas and chaplains, Oaxacan food is more than just a meal—it's an experience that tells the story of its people. If you're planning a trip to Oaxaca City, here's a closer look at ten traditional dishes you must try.

Mole: Oaxaca's Crown Jewel

Oaxaca is known as the "Land of the Seven Moles," and mole is, without a doubt, the region's most iconic dish. Mole isn't just a sauce; it's a culinary masterpiece that captures the complexity and depth of Oaxacan cuisine. Each variety of mole—whether it's the dark, almost black mole negro or the rich red mole coloradito—is made with a long list of ingredients, sometimes 30 or more. These include dried chilies, nuts, seeds, spices, and chocolate.

Mole Negro

Mole negro is perhaps the most famous, known for its smoky, slightly sweet flavor with hints of bitterness. It's often served over chicken or turkey with rice and tortillas. The process of making mole negro is labor-intensive, involving hours of grinding, roasting, and blending. The result is a deep, dark sauce and layered with flavor.

On the other hand, mole coloradito is a bit milder, with a slightly sweeter taste, often from added cinnamon and raisins. It's perfect for those who want to experience the magic of mole without the intensity of mole negro. And then there's mole amarillo, a vibrant yellow mole made with chilies, corn masa, and fresh herbs. Lighter and more tangy, it's often served with vegetables and chicken.

Trying mole is a must when in Oaxaca City. Head to places like Los Pacos or La Teca to experience these moles in a traditional setting, where you can savor the complex flavors that have been perfected over generations.

Tlayudas: The Heart of Oaxacan Street Food

If the mole is the soul of Oaxaca, then tlayudas are the heart. Often referred to as "Mexican pizza," tlayudas are large, crispy tortillas topped with a delicious spread of refried black beans, shredded lettuce or cabbage, avocado, Oaxacan string cheese (quesillo), and your choice of meat, such as tasajo (thinly sliced beef), chorizo, or carnitas. They are grilled over charcoal, which gives them a smoky flavor and a satisfying crunch.

Chorizo Tacos

The magic of tlayudas lies in the simplicity and quality of the ingredients. The tortilla, made from local heirloom corn, has a distinct earthy flavor. When toasted over a fire, it becomes the perfect vessel for the toppings. The combination of flavors—creamy beans, salty cheese, fresh lettuce, and smoky meat—is incredibly satisfying.

You can find tlayudas everywhere in Oaxaca, from street vendors to small eateries. For an authentic experience, head to Tlayudas Doña Martha or Tlayudas Libres, where you can enjoy this local favorite in a lively, no-frills environment.

Carnitas

Memelas: A Simple, Delicious Breakfast

Memelas are a staple breakfast in Oaxaca, offering a simple yet delicious start to the day. These thick, oval-shaped corn tortillas are grilled on a hot comal and then topped with a spread of refried beans, salsa, and crumbled cheese. You can add a variety of toppings, from chorizo and carnitas to a fried egg.

Memelas

What makes memelas stand out is the quality of the fresh masa (corn dough) used to make them. This isn't your average tortilla—it's thicker, fluffier, and slightly crispy on the outside. The toppings, usually fresh and locally sourced, are added with care, creating a perfect bite every time.

For a taste of mellas, visit Mercado de la Merced or Mercado Benito Juárez. There, you can watch the vendors prepare them right before your eyes. Mellas are a simple dish, but they capture the essence of Oaxacan comfort food.

Tamales Oaxaqueños: A Wrapped Delight

Tamales are a beloved food throughout Mexico, but they come with a unique twist in Oaxaca. Tamales oaxaqueñosare wrapped in banana leaves instead of the more familiar corn husks. This imparts the tamal a subtle, earthy flavor, making it moist and aromatic. The fillings can vary, but one of the most popular versions is filled with mole negro and chicken, creating a rich, savory dish that is incredibly satisfying.

Tamales

Making tamales is a labor of love, often involving the whole family. The masa is carefully prepared, mixed with lard or oil for a light and fluffy texture, and then filled with savory or sweet fillings. The banana leaves are then folded around the filling and steamed, infusing the tamales with a delicate flavor.

You'll find tamales oaxaqueños at street food stands, especially in the mornings, and they're perfect for a quick, hearty breakfast. Check out places like Tamales Genoveva, where you can sample tamales packed with authentic Oaxacan flavors.

Enmoladas: A Comforting Plate of Goodness

If you're familiar with enchiladas, you're in for a treat with enmoladas. These are essentially enchiladas covered in a rich mole sauce. Soft corn tortillas are filled with chicken, cheese, or vegetables, rolled up, and drenched in mole negro or mole coloradito. The dish is then topped with crumbled cheese, sliced onions, and a dollop of crema (Mexican sour cream), making for a deliciously creamy and spicy meal.

Enmoladas

Enmoladas are a fantastic way to enjoy Oaxaca's famous moles in a comforting, approachable dish. The mole sauce coats the tortillas, providing a velvety texture perfectly balanced by the fresh toppings. It's comfort food, bursting with flavor in every bite.

For a great plate of enchiladas, head to La Olla or El Biche Pobre. These restaurants serve this classic dish with pride and care.

Chapulines: A Crispy, Tangy Snack

For the more adventurous eater, chapulines are a must-try in Oaxaca. These toasted grasshoppers are a staple snack in the region and have been enjoyed for centuries. They're often seasoned with lime juice, garlic, chili, and salt, giving them a tangy, spicy flavor that pairs perfectly with a cold beer or a shot of mezcal.

Chapulines might seem like an unusual food, but they're actually a sustainable and protein-rich snack. They're commonly sold by the bag in local markets, where you can sample different flavors and spice levels. You'll often see them sprinkled on tlayudas, tacos, or even guacamole, adding a crunchy texture and a burst of flavor.

To taste chapulines, visit Mercado Benito Juárez or Mercado 20 de Noviembre, where you can buy them fresh and try them in various dishes.

Tetelas: Little Triangular Pockets of Flavor

Tetelas is another traditional Oaxacan dish that offers a simple yet delightful experience. Made from fresh corn masa, these triangular pockets are stuffed with ingredients like black beans, cheese, or mushrooms and then cooked on a hot comal. They're served with salsa, guacamole, or queso fresco (fresh cheese), making for a light yet satisfying meal.

Tetelas is a great breakfast or snack option, showcasing the versatility of corn in Oaxacan cuisine. The crispy exterior and soft, flavorful filling create a perfect balance of textures and flavors. For a taste, visit local spots like Itanoni or explore the food stalls in Oaxaca's bustling markets.

Empanadas de Amarillo: A Unique Oaxacan Twist

Empanadas de amarillo is a popular street food in Oaxaca that offers a unique twist on the traditional empanada. Instead of a doughy, pastry-like shell, these empanadas are made with corn tortillas filled with mole amarillo (yellow mole) and chicken or cheese. They're then folded in half and cooked on a comal until slightly crispy and warm.

The yellow mole is what makes these empanadas stand out. It's made from yellow chilies, tomatoes, and corn masa, resulting in a slightly tangy and mildly spicy sauce that complements the fillings beautifully. You can find empanadas de amarillo in markets and street food stalls around Oaxaca City, particularly at Mercado de la Merced.

Quesillo: Oaxaca’s Beloved Cheese

Quesillo, or Oaxacan string cheese, is a staple in many local dishes, and you'll see it everywhere—from tlayudas to quesadillas. It's a white, semi-soft cheese similar to mozzarella but with a firmer, stringier texture. The cheese is made by stretching and folding curds into long ribbons, then winding them into a ball, giving it its distinctive texture and mild, salty flavor.

You can find quesillo in every local market in Oaxaca City. It's perfect for snacking or adding to dishes for that delicious melty texture. It's a must-try for any cheese lover visiting Oaxaca.

Caldo de Piedra: A Soup with a Story

If you're looking for a truly unique culinary experience, Caldo de Piedra, or "stone soup," is something you can't miss. Originating from the Chinantec people of Oaxaca, this dish is cooked using hot stones. Fresh river fish, shrimp, tomatoes, onions, and herbs are placed in a bowl made of gourd, and then red-hot rocks are added to cook the ingredients right in front of you. The result is a delicious, smoky broth unlike anything you've tasted.

Caldo de Piedra is more than just a dish; it's a cultural ritual and a sensory experience. You can try it at specialty places like Caldo de Piedra – Cocina de Barrio, where the tradition is kept alive.

Exploring Oaxaca's Rich Culinary Landscape

Oaxaca City is where food reflects history, culture, and community. Each dish—from the deep, complex flavors of mole to the simple delights of a tlayuda or memela—tells a story. The city's vibrant food scene is a testament to the region's rich heritage and the creativity of its people. So, whether wandering through a bustling market, sitting at a family-owned restaurant, or sampling street food, Oaxaca's cuisine will captivate you and leave you longing for more. Bring your appetite and an open mind, and let Oaxaca City take you on a culinary adventure you'll never forget.